The phrase 'biodynamic'... has been making a steadily increasing presence in wine realm of late. What's the deal you ask? let me tell you what i know. It starts with organics, which as little as five years ago was most likely a source of hesitance when found on a wine label, and has today become more of a reassurance. No longer simply a marketing tool for producers who used their certification as an excuse to underperform in the quality department, it is fast becoming the rule among responsibly minded, sustainability concious winemakers. And the wines are GOOD. On to the subject at hand...
Biodynamics is a system of vineyard management which transforms the simple 'organic' ideal into a complex, holistically self-sustaining mindset. The techniques, though modern sounding in terminology, resemble more seemingly primitive, some say medieval, sensibilities; working in accord with lunar phases, burying steer horns filled with various herbs in strategic spots in the vineyard, systematic stirring of preparations in a counter-clockwise direction to increase vitality.... if it sounds like pseudo-scientific wierdness to you don't worry, you are among the majority. The question then becomes why have many of the World's most talented and respected winemakers converted to this quackery? The answer(s) are certainly complex and at points divisive. Of course we aren't here to take sides, but the results are hard to argue with. We have a significant offering of these witchy wines at the shop. Interestingly, many were neither presented to us as such, nor do they openly proclaim their status in/on their packaging or literature. This is in stark contrast to the fading 'organic' trend in which wines often featured the 'O' word nearly as prominently as anything else! This indicates there is broad skepticism (and confusion) not only among consumers, but among our peers in the trade. Ok, back to the evidence; In GENERAL, what we find with these wines is a distinct quality of vibrant minerality, and reticent fruit characteristics in comparison to their conventional cousins. We have noticed as well that the wines, rather than falling apart after a day or two after popping, actually gain complexity and appeal over the course of several days. Again, we're not here to posit ourselves as cryers for the movement, but our experiences have been clear enough for us to now actively seek (and sample) wines from biodynamic producers.
Of the field , the French are safely leading the pack. The elite of Burgundy, Alsace, and the Loire have largely converted, some with over a decade under their belts These include, famously, Domaines Leroy and Leflaive in Burgundy, and the colorful, brilliant Marcel Deiss in Alsace (whose '02 Riesling St. Hippolyte we have tiny stock of at the moment...)
In California, some of the top estates are in the process of conversion, including Joseph Phelps and Robert Sinskey. At present we are offering just around a dozen such wines. Some are officially certified, many not; the process is naturally quite lengthy and arduous. If your interest has been aroused for these New-Old Fashioned wines, stop in see if you can sniff 'em out. If not we'll be happy to give you some hints.
